Cabinet Building Basics for Diy'ers

From dressers and vanities to kitchen and bathUpper cabinets are constructed in the same basic
designs, building great cabinets means knowing themanner, using box or case construction for the sides,
basics.bottom and a 3/4-inch plywood top. In this case the
Regardless of whether you are building a stereosides, top and bottom all have 1/4-by-1/4-inch
cabinet or dresser, a kitchen cabinet or bathroomrabbets ripped in their inside edges for the plywood
vanity, basic cabinet construction is the same. Aor hardboard back. The facings are cut and installed in
cabinet or furniture piece consists of the carcass orthe same manner. Upper cabinets are anchored to
case with two sides, bottom and top, a back and athe wall with a nailer strip at the top and through the
front. The front may contain drawers, doors orback into the studs, as well as with screws through
shelves or combinations of the three. Severalthe back into the studs. Homemade cabinet jacks of
variations may be used in the construction.2-by-4's with shingle wedges can be used to
 temporarily hold the upper case up in position and
The carcass construction can be separated into threehelp level and plumb it until you can get it fastened
types: leg-and-rail, frame-and-panel, and box or case.solidly in place.
Leg-and-rail construction is found on chairs, tables, 
benches, stools and on some furniture such asSet the nails slightly below the surface.
chests. 
 Then fill all nail holes flush with wood putty.
Frame-and-panel construction is used to make up the 
component parts of many types of furniture includingVertical facers are often anchored with counterbored
the sides, doors and interior web frames with dustscrews from the inside edges.
panels that are used on many fine, hand-built pieces 
of furniture.A more intricate form of construction involves
 creating a facing frame of mortise and tenons joints.
Box or case construction is the basic design ofThe front facing frame is then anchored to the case
dressers, buffets, desks and chests, as well assides, top and bottom with glue blocks and
kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities.countersunk wood screws from the inside or with
 glue and biscuit joints. This totally eliminates the nail
The simplest case construction is a box made ofholes that must be filled and is the best method for
plywood. These can be softwood or hardwoodfine furniture cases.
plywood, and they can be painted or stained and 
varnished. Particle board, finished on one or twoFine furniture often consists of a case with an
sides, is a common material for construction of someassembled facer frame fastened over the front edge
cabinetry. A case can also be constructed of solidof the case. Mitered corners add to the fine
wood, but these days solid wood is used only onconstruction.
small pieces or for extremely fine furniture.Another form of construction consists of
 legs-and-rails with panels. The legs-and-rails are
The simplest cabinetry is a box construction such asassembled with mortise-and-tenon or dowel joints.
a kitchen cabinet. Shown is the typical constructionThe panels are held in rabbets.
dimensions of an applied-facer kitchen cabinet base. 
Kitchen Cabinet Case ConstructionBoth upper andFrame-and-Panel Construction
lower cabinets have the same basic constructionWith this type of construction, the corner posts of
details. On the lower cabinet, the first step is to cutthe assembly, which may also be the assembly legs,
the two sides. Incidentally, you can construct aare fitted with panels. The frame consists of rails and
custom kitchen cabinet to fit any space, rather thanstiles fastened together with mortise and tenons or
the small individual sections joined as with purchaseddowels. The corner posts or stiles may be rabbeted
cabinetry. Or you can make up smaller units and joinor dadoed to accept the panels, or the panels may
them in the same fashion. If a side is to be concealedbe held in place with dowels or biscuits. This is a very
against a wall, that side can be made of morepopular method of constructing small chests and
economical plywood. The exposed side should be cuttables, as well as larger pieces of fine furniture. The
from a good hardwood- or smoothpanel may be constructed of thinner, or thicker,
softwood-surfaced plywood.stock that is shaped at the edges.
This is the typical construction of an upper kitchen 
cabinet with applied facer.The inside framing on built-ins and simple furniture can
 consist of shelving standards with adjustable wooden
The following is the simplest method of constructing,shelves, or wooden shelf strips can be used to
using glue and finish nails that are then set below thesupport permanently located shelves. Drawers can
surface and the holes filled with wood putty. Cut a 1use metal slide systems. On fine cabinetry and
4-by-1/4-inch rabbet in the inside back edge of eachfurniture, however, the inside construction is as
side piece for the cabinet back. The bottom shelf isimportant as the outside because the inside framing
raised above the floor on most cabinets to create anot only provides for drawers and shelves, but also
“toe-space” or kick board. Locate theprovides strength. Drawers are often supported by
position of the bottom on the side pieces and markinside wooden partitions called web frames. Solid
the kick board cut-out on each cabinet side. Cut usingstock or plywood may be used, but they add a
a saber saw.great deal of weight. Open frames are commonly
 used. If the frames are fitted with thin wood panels
In most instances the bottom front facer is 1-inch inthey are called dust panels. Dust-panels and
width, allowing for a 1/4-inch lip to protrude downweb-frames are marks of quality furniture. They are
into the toe space. Mark this location and then use aalways used on desks or bureaus with locked
carpenter's  square to mark a line for the bottom.drawers; otherwise you could remove an upper
Cut the bottom 1/4-inch narrower than the sides, anddrawer and get into the contents of the drawer
then fasten the bottom in place with glue and finishbelow it. 
nails, making sure it is aligned with the squared marks. 
Install a nailing-strip at the top back. Cut this to fitMany fine furniture constructions use web frames
between the two sides and fasten in place with gluewith dust panels between the drawers.
and finish nails. Cut the back to the correct size from 
1/4-inch plywood or hardboard and, with the caseThese frames are normally assembled with
lying face down, lay the back in place. Use amortise-and-tenon joints, and with dadoes for the
carpenter's square to make sure the case is square,thin wooden dust panels. The web frames may be
and then fasten the back in place with 1/2-inchheld in place with glue and nails or screws. More
staples and an air nailer, or with 3/4-inch coated nails.often, the frames are fitted into rabbets or dadoes
 in the sides of the case and glue blocks used for
First step is to assemble the basic box, in this casesupport under the frame pieces at the back.
of plywood, with glue and screws or nails.Although the dadoes in the sides of the case could
 be the full thickness of the frame pieces, it is best to
Cut the side facers first. Apply glue to the case edge.rabbet the frame edges and cut a narrower dado
 joint to provide more gluing surface and a stronger
Turn the case upright and you're ready to install thejoint. A dovetail joint is the strongest for this type of
facings. Cut and install any dividers of shelves. Theunit; however, the frames must slide in from the
simplest method, especially for overlap doors, is tofront. When a frame-and-panel construction is used
install veneer tape over the plywood edges. Thesefor the sides of the case as well, the web frame
edges must first, however, be sanded smooth. Amay be fitted with stub mortise-and-tenons.
more traditional method is to install individual facer 
strips over the front edges of the case. TheseIf the front edge of the frame is also to act as a
normally fit flush with the outside edges of the case,drawer-front facing, it is covered with hardwood to
but overlap the inside edges.match the exterior of the project. Otherwise the
 frame is concealed behind the drawer fronts. If the
Cut the two side casings first, fitting them flush withframes are long, as on buffets, they should have a
the upper end of the sides and the lower edge ofmiddle supporting rail or even two supporting rails if
the toe space. Fasten these in place with glue andnecessary.
No. 6 finish nails. Then cut the lower facer to fitDoors and Drawers
between the two side facers, ensuring the correctDoors and drawers can be overlap, lip or flush.
width to match the top edge of the bottom shelfOverlap doors and drawers have the entire front
and the bottom edges of the toe spaces on thethickness exposed. These are often used on
sides. To cut to length, cut one end smooth and“Euro” style kitchen cabinets and bathroom
square, then hold it in place and use a sharp pencil tovanities. Lip doors and drawers normally have a 3
mark the length. Cut the pieces square using a8-by-3-inch lip or rabbet around all edges. This allows
fine-toothed blade in a radial arm saw. Glue in placefor using 3/8-inch lip hinges for installing the doors.
and fasten with No. 6 finish nails into the case-bottomFlush doors and drawers are fitted with their fronts
edge. Use No. 8 finish nails through the side facingsflush with the case facings. These require great care
into the sides to further secure in place. Cut the topin building and installing. Flush doors don't seal off the
facing in the same manner, ripping to width, and thencabinet as well as overlap or lip doors.
cutting to length. All facers should have their edgesShown are common door examples.
jointed smooth. 
 Door fronts may be made of solid wood or 3/4-inch
Align the facer flush with the case edge and fasten inplywood. The outer edges may be left square on
place with finish nails.overlap doors, but are commonly rounded on lip
 doors. Drawers are commonly made of solid wood,
Set the nail heads slightly below the wood surface.sometimes of plywood. 
  
Then measure the upper facer to fit preciselyFiner furniture, however, often utilizes
between the two side facers. frame-and-panel construction for the doors and
 sometimes for the drawers. Or the drawers may be
In this case the top facing is fastened between thesolid wood with shaped fronts. The frame-and-panel
two side facings with glue and No. 8 finish nailsdoors consist of two uprights, called stiles, and two
through the edges of the side facings into the endshorizontal pieces, called rails. Some doors also have a
of the top facing. If the cabinet has drawers, cutthird horizontal piece, or cross rail, in the middle. The
facers and install in the same manner. Cut door andframe pieces have dadoes cut along their inside
drawer dividers to fit between the drawer bottomedges for panels. Or a rabbet may be cut along the
facer or facers and the upper or lower facer asinside edges of the frame, in which case the panel is
needed. These can be anchored in place withheld in place by molding. The inside edge of the
toenail-driven, self-starting wood screws inframe is called “sticking.” It can be left flat or
countersunk holes, with glue and finish nails, or withshaped, or provided with attached decorative
glue blocks from the backside. Wood strips 3/4-by-1molding. A molded sticking adds to the strength of
1/2-inches are fastened inside the front and back,the frame structure.
and to the sides at the top for anchoring a 
countertop in place.Frame-and-panel doors may be made in several ways.
 The simplest is to cut dadoes in the frame pieces
 then dowel and glue the frame pieces together,
Use a fine-toothed saw and make a square cut soinserting the panel in place as you assemble the
there is no opening in the joint.frames. Or the frame can be assembled with
 mortise-and-tenon joints. The best method, however,
Nail the top facer in place, and then install the bottomis to use a router or shaper to create shaped
facer in the same manner.stickings. This creates a shaped joint and provides a
 larger glue surface, as well as a decorative frame
Install the divider facers in the same manner.edge.
  
Anchor the ends of the facers with No. 8 finish nailsThe panels inserted into the frames can be thin
through their mating facers.plywood panels or solid wood with their edges
 shaped. The top of the frame and panel can be left
At this point the cabinet bottom is ready to bestraight, or an arched panel and top rail may be
installed. If plumbing is to be installed for a sink, andcreated on a shaper or with a router.
electrical connections for a disposal are needed, 
measure and cut the openings at this time. ThenCreating cabinetry, whether building your own kitchen
place the cabinet in position. The cabinet must becabinets or a fine piece of furniture is a rewarding
level in all directions. Use a four-foot level totask. Start with simple box construction and work
determine level and wood shingles as shims to ensureyour way toward the more complicated construction
a level unit. Locate the studs in the wall and fastenas you gain experience and tools.
the cabinet in place with screws through the rear top 
nailing strip. The cabinet back can also be fastened toDoors and frame-and-panel construction often consist
the wall with screws into the studs. Build theof shaped bead and ogee edges with flat or shaped
countertop and install.panels. These can be cut with a router or shaper.