| Overall outline | | | | Now close to the left had side draw a line between |
| This garden chair is very simple to construct. Even | | | | the two 1*3 boards making sure that it is at exactly |
| with a minimum of tools it should take no more than | | | | right angles to the 2 parallel boards. From this line at |
| a few hours to build. And you can make several of | | | | the top board measure in 3 1/2" or 90mm in. Place a |
| them. | | | | mark. |
| Tools Required | | | | Take a front leg approx 25" (640mm) and put in |
| 1) Electric circular saw. (Skilsaw) (However if you | | | | place going from the mark at the top which is 3 1/2 |
| have access to a power compound miter saw, the | | | | in, down to the bottom board mark on the |
| project will be quicker, easier and more accurate.) 2) | | | | perpendicular line. |
| A drill and 2 bits. 8mm or 5/16" and a flat speedbore | | | | Measure 3 1/4" (82mm) from the top of the inside |
| of 20mm 3/4" for countersinking. 3) Jigsaw or a band | | | | leg along the guide board and place a mark. Now |
| saw 4) Hammer. 5) Tape measure. Nail punch. Small | | | | from the bottom inside of the front leg measure 19 1 |
| hand plane. Adjustable square. Pencil. 6) Socket set | | | | 4" (490mm) and place another mark. |
| with 8mm (5/16) socket. 7) 2 clamps | | | | Line up the back leg (28") on the top and bottom |
| The Lumber | | | | marks. When it is correct draw a line underneath the |
| There are two sizes of lumber required. Frame | | | | leg against the guide boards. These are the angles |
| & Legs The frame and legs are made from ex | | | | you need to cut to get the top and bottom parallel. |
| 2*3" (75*50mm) which when dressed finishes up as 1 | | | | Do the same with the other set of legs just making |
| 3/4*2 3/4" (70*45mm). Slats The other size required | | | | sure that they are both identical. You can use the jig |
| is ex 1"* 3" (75*25mm) which when dressed finishes | | | | also for setting up the leg attachment to the frames. |
| at 3/4"* 2 3/4" (70*20). This is used for the seat | | | | The jig can be used many times if you are making |
| slats. | | | | many chairs of course. |
| The lumber needs to be treated to prevent it rotting | | | | Step 3 Arms Cut 2 pieces of 2*3" (70*45) at 23 3/4" |
| when exposed to ground and weather elements. It | | | | (605mm) Scribe an arc around the front end as a |
| also needs to be dry otherwise it will shrink as it | | | | guide for cutting. At the other end measure in 1" |
| dries. Pine is probably the best option however | | | | (25mm) and along 6" (150mm). Now scribe another |
| redwood, cedar, kwila or other exotic lumber can be | | | | arc for a cutting guide. Cut these out with a band |
| used. | | | | saw or jigsaw. (See diagram D.) saw a 60 degree |
| These sizes are readily available however if you wish | | | | angle off the back end of the arms. |
| to vary the lumber you just have to adjust some of | | | | Step 4 Attaching legs to seat support Arrange each |
| your measurements. | | | | front and back leg pair on a flat surface. You will |
| Materials requireda) 50 galvanized 2" flathead (50mm) | | | | require 2 temporary boards to tack onto the legs to |
| nails b) 20 galvanized 4" flathead (100mm) nails c) 16' | | | | keep them in the correct position while you bolt |
| (6.5m) Pine Lumber 1*3 (20*70-mm) dressed and | | | | them to the seat frame. |
| treated. d) 20' (5m) Pine Lumber 2*3 (45*70mm) | | | | Set the bottom 19 1/4" (490mm) apart and the top |
| dressed and treated. e) 8 (90*8mm) 3 1/2" *5/16" | | | | 3 1/4" apart. Tack in place. Now the distance |
| coach bolts with nuts and washers | | | | between the top and bottom should be 23 3/4" |
| This is the actual material that goes into the table. | | | | (605mm) and it must be parallel. Use your jig. Adjust |
| You will need a little more to cover waste although | | | | it until you get this correct. Tack so that it doesn't |
| waste is minimal because there are many short | | | | move. Now do the same with the other set of legs. |
| pieces used in the construction. You will need some | | | | If you now put them on top of each other they |
| 3*1 as temporary bracing as well. And some plywood | | | | should be the same. |
| to hold the leg template. | | | | Take an outside seat support and place it on the |
| Cutting List | | | | seat frame. Position it carefully 3/4" in and 15" up. |
| 2*3 (70*45) Seat supports... 4@ 19 3/4" | | | | Rotate the leg until the seat support join is in the |
| (500mm)...Front legs...2@ 24 1/4" (615mm)... Back | | | | middle of the back leg. Clamp in place. Do the other |
| legs...2@ 26 3/4".(680mm)... Arms... 2@ 23 3/4" | | | | leg the same and then position one on top of the |
| (605mm) | | | | other to see if they match. |
| 1*3 (70*20mm)... Short slats ...20@ 20 1/2" (520mm) | | | | If they match and everything looks right, bore the 3 |
| Step by step construction | | | | holes,one for the front and 2 at the back. This puts |
| It is advisable to do each step in logical order and | | | | one bolt one each side of the join. Counter sink and |
| only cut the pieces required for the next stage | | | | bolt in place. |
| rather than cutting the whole table out all at once. | | | | Step 5 Attaching the arms The arm should fit neatly |
| Everyone's measurements are slightly different. It is | | | | parallel to the ground. Position it 3 1/2" (90mm) in |
| extremely easy to get an angle slightly out even on | | | | from the front and level with the outside of the legs. |
| a miter saw. If you want your project to look | | | | Nail when in place. Bore the hole for the bolt to |
| professional, take your time and aim for an accurate | | | | attach arm to the seat back support. Repeat with |
| fit. | | | | the other arm. |
| Before fixing each board, use the small hand plane to | | | | Step 6 Frames Cut the 3 horizontal frames, 1 @ 2' |
| put a slight bevel on the showing edge. This takes | | | | (610mm) which joins the outside legs under the front |
| the furriness off the saw cut and improves the look. | | | | seat support and 1 @ 20 1/2" (520mm) under the |
| Step 1 Seat Supports Cut 4 pieces of 2*3" (90*45) | | | | back support and one at 17 1/8" (435mm) on the |
| to 19 3/4" (502mm). Now set the saw or miter box | | | | back between the seat supports. The back one is |
| to 31 degrees and cut one end of the 4 pieces at | | | | positioned 8 3/4" (225mm) up from the join in the |
| this angle. (This is cutting an angle of 59 degrees.) | | | | seat support. Keep checking measurements to see |
| Now leaving the saw at the same setting cut off half | | | | that it is all square. If all is square, tack and then fix in |
| the end of each board on the same side as the | | | | place. |
| acute angle. Nail each of the supports together as in | | | | Step 7 Attaching slats The front slat should overhang |
| diagram A. Put them on top of each other to make | | | | the front by 1/2" (10mm) and the top slats should |
| sure that they are the same. | | | | overhang the supports by the same amount. Check |
| Step 2 Legs This is quite a critical part and getting | | | | that the distance is 20" (520mm). There are 12 slats, |
| the angles accurate on most saws will be difficult. | | | | 6 for the seat part and 6 for the back of the seat. |
| However there is an way of getting it perfect. | | | | Space them out so they fit neatly and tack in place. |
| Cut the 2 back legs from 2*3 (70*45) at approx 30" | | | | If all is correct and square, fix the nails. |
| (760mm) Cut the two front legs at 26" (670mm) | | | | You have a Garden Chair of which you can be very |
| Jig Method Set up a jig. On a sheet of 1/2" plywood | | | | proud. |
| approx 3' * 3' (or some other flat board) screw two | | | | This garden seat is a shortened version of the very |
| 1*3 pieces of lumber approx 2'6" long parallel to each | | | | successful Garden Seat/Table plan which you can see |
| other at exactly 2' (610mm) apart. These are guide | | | | a video clip of. |
| boards. | | | | |