| Step 1 | | | | Marked stringer |
| Determine a location for your bridge. The foundation | | | | 1. Cut 2x6 decking boards to 36" for decking. |
| of the bridge must be on solid, dry ground. Measure | | | | 2. Center the decking boards on the stringer frame |
| your space and buy materials. | | | | so there's about an inch of overhang on each side. |
| Step 2 | | | | Secure the deck boards with two screws at each |
| Place one pair of concrete pier blocks at each end of | | | | stringer. Leave a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between each |
| the bridge location. Dig down or build up in order to | | | | decking board. It may be necessary to cut decking |
| ensure that the blocks are level with each other. | | | | boards to fit where the incline flattens out on the |
| Step 3 | | | | bridge. |
| Connect beams to the pier blocks. Place the pier | | | | Cut stringer |
| blocks one length of beam a part. Attach the beams | | | | For this bridge, we decided not to install railings. In |
| using metal straps. | | | | most areas, structures under two feet high are not |
| Step 4 | | | | required to have railings, but always check with your |
| Construct railing posts for each side of the bridge, if | | | | local building inspector for requirements in your area. |
| desired. Carefully measure the height of the posts to | | | | If your local code requires railings or if you would like |
| make sure they're even. Set the posts in incremental | | | | to add them to your bridge. |
| spacing to ensure that the railing is supportive and | | | | More Plans that might work good for you. |
| strong. | | | | My wife had casually mentioned that a footbridge |
| Step 5 | | | | over the dry creek bed drainage culvert we created |
| Lay planks across the beams to form the treads of | | | | in the front and in the back would be a nice feature. |
| the bridge. Cut the planks to a length that allows | | | | I decided to surprise her and built the bridges in one |
| them to lay fully over each beam but not too far | | | | day. I used 2x12 lumber for the sides, cut the arch |
| over the sides of the bridge. | | | | shapes out with a jigsaw, and then transferred that |
| Step 6 | | | | shape to the other side and cut it out too. |
| Attach hand railing to the railing posts. Measure the | | | | I left a flat area on the bottom side at each end |
| proper height and mark each railing post with chalk as | | | | where it would rest on the ground. The only limit to |
| a visual guideline, then firmly attach each hand railing | | | | design on the cuts is your imagination. If you don't |
| section. | | | | want a tall bridge, or if it isn't spanning a wide area, |
| Step 7 | | | | you could use 2x10, 2x8 or even 2x6 lumber. I made |
| Stain or paint and seal the bridge. Use a sealer | | | | mine 6 feet long and 24" wide, and used 2x4 and |
| specifically for use outdoors to prevent dampness | | | | 2x6 boards for the decking, and a 2x6 vertical |
| from ruining the wood and destroying your bridge. | | | | support in the center to give it more rigidity. I used a |
| Part 2 | | | | square to make sure the board sides and ends were |
| 1. Use 16' 2x12s for the stringers. Square both ends | | | | perpendicular and parallel. |
| of a 2x12 and cut it exactly 16' in length. | | | | I used redwood If you want to make a smooth arch |
| 2. Measure up 4" on each end of the 2x12 and make | | | | shape, you can use 1/2" PVC pipe, bend it to the |
| a mark. Locate the center of the 2x12, measure 1 1 | | | | shape you want, screw it to the board, and then |
| 2' (18") toward the left and right ends, and mark. | | | | trace out the curve on the board. The bridge is very |
| Draw cut-lines between the marks as shown below. | | | | sturdy, and looks pretty good too. Of course, you |
| 3. Use a circular saw to cut the stringer along the | | | | could use 2x8, or even 2x6 side boards, depending |
| cut-line. Use the first stringer as a pattern to mark | | | | on the span and how you cut the side boards. |
| and cut the other stringers. | | | | |