| If you are building a timber deck, small or large, and | | | | begin bolting in the bearers. Some even come with U |
| want to save hours of time - whether it's your labor | | | | saddles so that a 70, 90 or 110mm post can be |
| or someone else's - wouldn't it be great if you didn't | | | | bolted directly to the footing at the required height. |
| have to dig post-holes or pour concrete footings? | | | | Look for ground screws that are galvanized to |
| Thanks to a new "twist" on an old idea - now you | | | | international standards, so they will easily outlast your |
| don't have to! Without pre-drilling, digging, augering, or | | | | timber decking. What's more, if you decide to move |
| concrete you can simply screw one of the new | | | | or remove your timber deck you can simply unscrew |
| galvanised "ground screws" into the ground for a | | | | the footings and re-use them for another project. |
| maintenance free footing that lasts 20-30 years. | | | | Similarly, if you accidentally put a footing in the wrong |
| Once the footing is screwed into the ground it is | | | | place you can simply unscrew it and move it where it |
| ready to take a load immediately. Nothing needs to | | | | needs to go. Try doing that with concrete! |
| cure or settle. Each screw takes approximately 5 | | | | Obviously, rocks will cause problems (whether you |
| minutes each to install by machine, 3 minutes to | | | | are using a ground screw or digging a hole), but other |
| set-up and 2 minutes to drive home. So in 30 minutes | | | | than that almost any soil is suitable to install a ground |
| you can have 6 footings installed, then immediately | | | | screw into, even sand. |