| Hanging a door can be a frustrating process the first | | | | include that in bottom clearance. |
| time or two. Taking time to check for plumb/square | | | | Fit the door, block it with shims and check the |
| level throughout the project will prevent frustration | | | | gaps-plane the door if needed. When the door fits |
| and achieve good results. | | | | correctly, you're ready to mark the hinges. |
| Removing an existing door | | | | Hanging a hinged door |
| Take the door off the hinges or tracks. | | | | Most doors have three hinges. A heavy or extra |
| Remove the door casing (trim) on both sides. | | | | secure door may require more hinges. In this |
| With a reciprocating saw or mini-hacksaw, cut | | | | instance, we'll install the hinges to the jamb before |
| through nails holding the jambs. | | | | fastening the hinges to the door. But some people |
| If the door has a threshold plate, pry or cut it loose. | | | | screw them to the door first. |
| Framing a rough opening | | | | Mark and mortise the jamb hinges-usually 7" from the |
| On exterior and load-bearing walls you'll be removing | | | | top of the upper hinge to the top of the door, and |
| a few existing wall studs that support the house. | | | | 11" from the bottom of the lower hinge to the |
| Therefore, the door's rough opening framing must | | | | bottom of the door. Center the middle hinge. |
| take over the load. | | | | Locate the hinges to stick out slightly from the jamb |
| In most cases, 2x4 or 2x6 lumber is used for side | | | | so they won't "pinch" when opening/closing.Fasten |
| framing and two 2x10s (or larger) lumber makes up | | | | the hinges to the jamb. Then fit the door and trace |
| the header. Mark the outline of the doorway- 6" | | | | around the door hinge pieces (hinge leaf). Mortise out |
| wider and 3" higher to accommodate framing. Make | | | | the door and fasten the hinges. |
| sure to remove any baseboard in the way. | | | | TIP: Don't completely tighten the screws to allow the |
| Saw or chisel away the existing wallboard/plaster. Cut | | | | hinges some "play" while getting the hinge pins in. |
| the existing wall studs in the new opening where the | | | | Tap the door pins in and test the door. If it opens |
| top of the framing header will be, or remove them | | | | closes freely, you're ready to put on the door stop |
| completely if the header reaches the wall's top plate. | | | | and latch hardware. |
| Remove the soleplate at the threshold. A | | | | Shimming hinges |
| reciprocating saw or hand saw is handy for this job. | | | | A newly hung door may bind or sag a bit, due to a |
| Cut two 2x4s (or 2x6) king studs to run the full | | | | jamb being out of plumb. Or accidentally making the |
| length of the wall, or use an existing wall stud if | | | | hinge mortise too deep creates an uneven gap along |
| possible. | | | | the latch side of the door. |
| Scab on trimmer studs to the king studs to support | | | | Both of these problems may easily be corrected by |
| the header. Cut and fit the header on the trimmer | | | | shimming a hinge or two with a cut piece of |
| studs and toenail the header to the king studs. | | | | cardboard, thin flooring scrap, or in some cases a |
| Installing door jambs | | | | shim cut out to fit behind of the hinge. |
| If you're putting in a prehung door, fitting the door | | | | Close the door and check the gaps. If the door sticks |
| into the jambs is already done for you. You just | | | | at the top hinge, shim the top hinge and snug the |
| need to shim the jambs correctly into the frame. | | | | bottom hinge, and vise versa for a door sticking at |
| Whether you're installing each jamb separately, or | | | | the bottom hinge. |
| installing a pre-hung door, getting the jambs in place is | | | | If the door sticks at the top knob-side corner, |
| done basically the same way. | | | | tighten the top hinge and shim the bottom hinge, and |
| Shim the side jambs plumb/square with the opening | | | | vise versa for a door sticking at the bottom |
| and tack them in place. Test fit the header jamb and | | | | knob-side corner. |
| when it's square secure the side jambs. | | | | Remove the hinge across from the gap you wish to |
| NOTE: Place shims behind hinge and strike plate areas | | | | close. Place the shim in the mortise and reattach the |
| for secure fastening-especially exterior or locking | | | | hinge over it. Note how much the door gap changed |
| doors. | | | | and shim other hinges accordingly if necessary. |
| Check for squareness again, shim if needed, and nail | | | | However, shimming out too thick will often make the |
| the header jamb in place. | | | | shim visible. |
| Fitting the door | | | | Door knob tips |
| These are the extra steps needed if you don't have | | | | Do not try to install a door knob without an |
| a prehung door. Compare the squareness of the | | | | appropriately-sized hole saw. Go buy one-and a good |
| jamb frame to the door. If it's not square or you're | | | | quality chisel for mortising. |
| putting on an old door, it may be necessary to trim | | | | Most knobs and latch kits have instructions and a |
| the door to fit. | | | | handy template to use, so we won't discuss actual |
| TIP: Consider installing the door knob if it isn't already. | | | | installation here. In most cases, the knob and latch |
| It can help you control the door while test fitting and | | | | are located 3' from the bottom of the door. |
| handling. (For more on that, check out our Door Knob | | | | With the knob on, locate the strike plate location by |
| Tips.) | | | | transposing the knob location measurements. A less |
| When the door and the jamb frame are square to | | | | conventional method is to "color" the knob latch point |
| each other, adjust the gaps between the door and | | | | with pencil lead, turn the knob to retract the latch, |
| jambs-usually 1/16" at top, 1/8" on the knob side and | | | | position the door shut, and release the knob to mark |
| up to 1/4" on the bottom. If installing carpet later, | | | | the edge of the strike plate on the side jamb. |