Selecting Wood For Your Home Projects

How To Select Wood For Your Home Projectson a flat surface; if bowed, it will rock. Bow is usually
The purpose of selecting your wood is so you endremoved with little difficulty if you have points of
up with a good final product. While all wood typicallyattachment; however; avoid boards that are
has flaws, you want to select wood that isobviously bowed.
reasonably fault free.Cup: Cup is a fault where the edges of the board curl
Faults and Flaws to avoid include:up. Mildly cupped boards will usually pull down when
1) Twist - Do not use twisted lumber. It will alwaysanchored to another piece of wood. Push down on
result in a twisted final piece. Check for twist bythe outer edges of the board. If you can easily push
laying the piece of wood on a level (horizontal)the board flat (into a plane), you can use the board.
surface. Use a short level (often called a torpedoIf you use a board that has too much cup, it will split
level) to determine twist. Check both ends of thein the middle as you pull the cup out.
board; if the level reads the same on both ends, theShake: Shake is a fault that occurs in the wood as
piece is not twisted. If the piece is highly twisted,the tree grows. It indicates that the tree is growing
you can see this by looking along the length of theunder stress and typically the heart area splits open.
board.Shake usually results in twist and should be avoided.
2) Moisture - All wood contains moisture, even afterRot: Rotten wood is discolored and soft. You may
being "dried". Be sure your wood has a stableuse the good portion of a rotten board, otherwise
moisture content. Standard grade lumber is typicallyavoid rot.
high in moisture and other flaws. You can dry yourLoose/Missing Knot: Loose knots can be glued back in
wood by stacking it with air spaces between alland missing knot areas can be filled. I like to use a
surfaces. Laths are used for this purpose. Be surelimb the size of the knot hole and transplant a slice
that air can get to the bottom of the stack.into the board. Of course, this process requires time
Typically, I stack my bunk of wood on 4"x4"'s, andso judge accordingly.
then use lath between every layer, also leaving 1/2"Summary
open space between boards.1) Be fussy about the wood you chose. Your final
Stack your wood in a dry area, out of the sun, andproduct will be no better than the materials you start
give it plenty of time to dry. You can buy a moisturewith.
meter to read the moisture content (not necessary)2) If the lumber company won't let you sort through
5% to 10% is dry. 1" Thick wood will dry in 1 to 3the wood, find one that will. You can usually get
months, while 2" thick wood takes 2 to 6 months. Ifaround their policy by being nice to the yard man. A
you buy a premium grade wood, it will be at leastlittle B.S. goes a long way.
partially dry. Have your supplier check the moisture3) Don't rush your wood. A home environment is dry
content.and your wood needs to be stable in the
As wood dries, wood faults show up, so a boardenvironment it's going to live in.
that looks good may completely become worthless4) The extra care you take at the start of the
as it dries.project will insure a good finish.
Crown: Crown is a fault that can easily be seen by5) Always buy more wood than you are actually
looking down the edge of the board or by laying agoing to use. 20% extra is a minimum. Leftovers can
straight edge or string line along the board. This faultbe used for something else, and you may not be
can be removed by planeing or saw the crown out,able to match the wood you started with when you
but of course, you loose a portion of the board.go back for more.
When working hardwoods, removing crown is justIf you have specific questions, just contact us and
part of the process.we will try to help you.
Bow: Bow is a fault that is easily seen. Lay the board